Cruising the Douro River.
One of the larger reasons Thom and I enjoy traveling in the summer is to escape the heat of our desert home in Southern California. We call ourselves “weather chasers” because we tend to prefer sunny, but temperate, climates. This summer was no exception and we’ve been very fortunate during our travels. Unfortunately, after leaving the Sintra near the coast of Portugal we headed inland to Tomar. And yes it got hot! Not as hot as back home, but hot enough to make us adjust our plans accordingly. Of course, one thing that is an essential item to take along when taking any adventure is flexibility along the remembrance that we are fortunate to be able to travel in the first place. So yes, we’ve still enjoyed our time in spite of soaring temperatures across Europe this July.
Part of the Monastery and Chapel in Tomar
Back when we were planning our trip we decided to visit a town in the central part of the country to get a sense of the countryside of Portugal. One small city named Tomar stood out. It is a couple of hours east of the coast, on a beautiful river, and home to a castle built by the Knights Templar which includes a huge monastery called The Convent of Christ. Inside the monastery is a round chapel, called a rotunda, originally built by the Temple Knights in the 12th Century. To manage the heat we got up early one morning and as soon as it was open we explored the property–and had the place nearly to ourselves.
A small portion of the Portuguese Camino.
Another great thing about Tomar is that one of the trails for the Portuguese Camino (similar to the more famous Camino in Northern Spain) went right by the front of our vacation rental. The trail followed the river and was a wonderful morning and evening walk. And now we can say we’ve walked part of the Camino! Plus, our cottage had a swimming pool that we enjoyed on more than one hot afternoon. In addition, the city was holding a Festa Templaria (something like a Renaissance Festival in the U.S.) on the weekend we were there. It was perfect for going into town for dinner and walking through the park where the festival was held.
Thom and new friends at our Vacation Rental in Tomar.
Plus, before we left California, a friend of ours (Janis from Retirementally Challenged) put us in contact with friends of her and her husband’s who had moved to Portugal a year earlier. We met Elaine and Duncan halfway between our place in Tomar and their home in Caldas da Rainha at an amazing cave structure called “Grutas de Mira de Aire.” Not only was the cave spectacular and one of the best we’ve ever toured, we hit it off with Elaine and Duncan and spent the afternoon talking. Oh, and the temps in the cave were perfect.
Inside the Cave at Mira de Aire
New friends and Portugal Expat Duncan and Elaine
After spending nearly a week in Tomar we headed to Douro Valley. For over a year any time we mentioned that we were going to Portugal, people would say, “You HAVE to go to the Douro Valley!” So yes it was on our itinerary–but unfortunately it was hot! In spite of that the valley is truly beautiful with the River Douro running through it and the surrounding hills covered with grape vines. Hundreds of wineries dot the hillside and in spite of the heat everything is green. On one day we hired a driver to give us a tour or the central valley and go to a couple of wine tastings. And on the second day we did a two-hour river cruise on the river. And yes, our B & B had a swimming pool.
View over the Douro River in the Douro Valley.
Tasting great wine and port in the Douro Valley.
We did have a wonderful time in both Tomar and the Douro Valley in spite of the heat and smoky skies from nearby fires. And what I am vividly reminded of is how fortunate we are to even be able to travel in these times and adjust our schedules as necessary to accommodate things like hot days. We know not everyone can do that. It is also a GREAT reminder that it is so very necessary for the world and all of the individual countries to do what they can to reduce the effects of climate change for the world as soon as possible. If the children of today are going to have the opportunity to do what we are privileged to be doing, we really have no time to waste.
Onward! Our final couple of weeks take us back to the coast and hopefully milder temperatures!
Kathy what amazing adventures you two are having. Things lined up just right. I love looking at all of your pictures and take in every detail. How nice to meet friends of friends who become new friends and make new fur friends too.
You are such a great model of creating your experience through your attitude. Even in the heat, which can’t have been pleasant, you found ways to adapt and enjoy. Glad you got to take a stroll on the Camino. A friend of mine is going to walk 150+ miles of the Portuguese Camino this fall. Hopefully it will be a little cooler then.
Hi Galen! Thank you! I must confess that in spite of our good attitude (and I think we have a pretty good one too!) there have been a few (mostly) minor melt-downs. When I get tired or hungry or stressed I get a bit cranky…and Thom does too. Luckily it doesn’t usually happen at the same time! Of course as the trip is winding down we are both grateful for this amazing experience AND a little bit grateful it is almost over. I am SO-O-O glad we didn’t decide to make it longer. I have one more post to do of the trip (Porto and Lisbon) and then a couple of “things I would do again–things I wouldn’t! And I’m actually looking forward to writing about that! I still don’t think I’m much of a travel writer and appreciate the people who have stuck with me all this time anyway. Thanks for being one of them!!! ~Kathy
You prove my point. Having a good attitude doesn’t mean that we don’t face challenges, or that we don’t have occasional melt-downs. But it is an overall attitude of gratitude and openness. So there! My assessment of you as a good model is affirmed!
Hi Galen! Of course you are absolutely right! And fortunately the older we get the more quickly we catch ourselves and bring ourselves back. Exactly why the mantra, “I get to make it up!” works so well for me. 🙂
Hi Kathy,
Love your post! The shots of the Templar Castle and the Convent of Christ are amazing! It’s so fascinating to learn about history. And lucky you to be there just in time for the festival. I didn’t know about the cave and you are right, it’s quite something to see and for me, that’s just from your pictures. Glad you got to meet up with some new friends and enjoy time with them as well. The Douro Valley is just beautiful.
And yes when it’s that hot, a pool is definitely a bonus. We’ve been watching and seeing how high the temperatures are going. It’s funny – we’re booking our trains and got an email from the company (in Portuguese) saying because of the temperatures refunds are being issued if there’s no air conditioning on your train. And we’re not even there yet! Very proactive!!
How was the Douro River cruise? Which one did you take? We’re thinking of doing that and would appreciate any recommendations you could give. Enjoy your final weeks!!
Hi Debbie! Yes the Portugal train system is quite good. We got senior rates from Porto to Lisbon in 1st Class and it was only 22 Euros each. Very nice! And they also kept sending us emails about the strikes as well. We highly recommend. We were on the high speed train and it definitely had A/C so that wasn’t an issue.
As far as the Douro River Cruise we did a company that provided private river cruises. (2 hours). We saw other boats with people pretty packed in and when it’s hot I need the shade. So glad we took the one we did. It was with Anim Durius…here is their website. https://animadurius.pt/en/. We originally booked the Baca boat because it had the best shade…but the engine wouldn’t start they took on the Stella Marie. Two hours was just right for us… Barbara was our Skipper. We would recommend it.
I would also recommend the young man that we used for our afternoon tour of the valley…I think he can line up a river cruise if you want. He took us to wineries that he recommended and we had private tours with them too. Two great ways to see the Douro Valley.
Are you getting excited. I know you told me but I can’t remember when you said you’d be going. It’s getting closer though isn’t it?
~Kathy
Hi Kathy,
We’re getting very excited!! It’s just over four weeks before we leave! 🙂
We’re looking into the cruises and they look pretty amazing. Thanks for the link and information.
No wonder you are getting excited. It will be here before you know it! And all your fans will want a report as well! Any more questions just let me know. I’m going to work on the post for Porto and Lisbon (my last travel post) at the airport going home!
So happy that you were right beside a Camino Trail. Every step on it is magical! Looking firward to following your remaining adventures!
Hi Donna! Yes…not sure if we’ll do any more of the Camino’s but when they are THAT convenient (not to mention pretty!) how could we not! We are seeing lots of backpackers here in Portugal. Not sure if they are walking the Camino or just trekking. I’m pretty sure that isn’t something I’ll ever be doing! But I admire those that “into” it! ~Kathy
More wonderful experiences…
Thanks Gary! I think you and Robert are having great experiences yourselves! ~Kathy
Kathy, I did not know about the caves in Portugal. Something new to look forward to. We have only ever been to Portugal in April and May, so have not had to endure the heat. It does rain a lot in May though, so I guess it is always a good idea to remain flexible!
Hi Suzanne! Those caves really are spectacular and I highly recommend the experience. The ticket price includes the English guide and the setting and structure of the caves are VERY well done. Good for Portugal for creating such a wonderful experience for people. And yes, I think all travelers need to be flexible about weather and just about everything these days. It sure helps to enjoy the experience. ~Kathy
How nice that you had rentals with pools just when you needed them! I love the picture of Thom enjoying a dip and a sip with his buddies! I am so happy that you met up with Elaine and Duncan… I figured you’d hit it off with them. Good peeps.
Hi Janis. Yes it helped to have a pool for sure. It also helps knowing what we know coming from a HOT climate that the best way to tolerate the heat is do mornings…siesta in the afternoon…and then do evenings when the sun goes down. I was amazed at the number of people wandering around mid-day. Either they didn’t know any better or they have a MUCH better heat tolerance that I do! And as you predicted, we got along great with Elaine and Duncan. We hope we can spend more time with them in the future! ~Kathy
You ARE flexible! Glad you had a pool — and the “three new friends” look adorable!
Just FYI — here in Nova Scotia, as in Portugal, it can sometimes get hot inland, but the coast has always been breezy and cool….
Hey Nancy! You are so right. I think us travelers all need to consider that inland temps in the future are likely to be HOT in the summertime and plan accordingly. And when you can’t go to the coast, look for the closest pool! ~Kathy